So the adventure turned out to be a bit more of an adventure than we planned.
NZ is very dependent on tourism and of course they are worried that overseas visitors will stop coming after the Christchurch earthquake. In the paper today they said that the number of visitors from Japan and other parts of SE Asia were dropping. Their tourist info organisation is superb. Every town has an I-site which has excellent staff who will advise on hikes, walks, trips, places to stay, drives to take and has loads and loads of free maps, guides and leaflets.
We've had a variety of accommodation mostly motels. The best place was Quest serviced apartments in Napier the Art Deco town, luxury. The worst the place in Timaru and horrible motel in Wanaka Lake. Both on the day bookings. Napier was fascinating, they really only recognized it's uniqueness in the 1980s and still don't seem to be strict enough about preservation - a bit too laid back in this case!
What has driven me crazy is the dreadful Internet connections. As an example I've just loss the last 30 mins typing this last post as the connection dropped so I will just have to tell you the last few thoughts when we all catch up somewhere some time. I'll finish now before it does it again. Thanks to those who followed and hope it wasn't all deadly boring
Love Sally and Dave xxx
We land 1.20pm Uk time on Sunday. This has been the most fantastic trip and we are already thinking about a return visit. We feel we've left a little bit of our hearts in Christchurch and we wish this lovely city a speedy regeneration.
Love from Sally and Dave
Friday, 4 March 2011
Tuesday, 1 March 2011
Te Anau, Milford Sound, Wanaka and beyond
I have run out of superlatives for this beautiful country. To sum up the last few days.... Majestic, jaw-droppingly beautiful, awesome, amazing, stunning, fabulous - you get my drift. Our trip to Milford Sound was 2 hrs in the most luxurious coach ever driving through fabulous scenery, mountains, lakes, forests, waterfalls then onto our boat for the most beautiful trip there is. There was a brilliant blue sky and warm sunshine. Just a perfect day. The next day we drove to Wanaka which is in a lovely setting, but not as lovely as Te Anau where Dave wants to move to. Then the drive through gorges, mountains and more rocky streams and waterfalls to Hokitika. Another unbelievably scenic drive the next day took us back to Nelson.
We observed the 2 min silence at a viewpoint on a narrow coastal road with waves crashing beneath us and we spent the time thinking of what might have happened to us and of the people who have lost their lives or lost those close to them last Tuesday.
We stopped to admire extraordinary rock formations called Pancake Rocks at Punaikaki where alternating soft and hard layers of rock have been eroded over 1000s of years into what look like stacks of pancakes.
We are now on the ferry to Wellington, which I might add had a tremor of 4.7 last night! We are driving straight up to the Art Deco town of Napier, which was rebuilt almost entirely in the 1930s...... after a huge earthquake.
Leaving this beautiful place on Saturday, we will be very sorry to end this fantastic trip
We observed the 2 min silence at a viewpoint on a narrow coastal road with waves crashing beneath us and we spent the time thinking of what might have happened to us and of the people who have lost their lives or lost those close to them last Tuesday.
We stopped to admire extraordinary rock formations called Pancake Rocks at Punaikaki where alternating soft and hard layers of rock have been eroded over 1000s of years into what look like stacks of pancakes.
We are now on the ferry to Wellington, which I might add had a tremor of 4.7 last night! We are driving straight up to the Art Deco town of Napier, which was rebuilt almost entirely in the 1930s...... after a huge earthquake.
Leaving this beautiful place on Saturday, we will be very sorry to end this fantastic trip
Friday, 25 February 2011
Transalpine Drive, the day after
after an awful night when every time there was an aftershock I lay there thinking 'is this another big one? Is it going to stop?' we set off early saying a very fond goodbye to Penny and Brian who were indefatigable in their efforts to make sure we were all ok in the motel. As we drove out we were in for more shocks as we travelled up Pokenhui road. Our motel was 100 yds outside the 4 Avenue lockdown so we were very lucky to be able to get all our stuff. We passed houses, cafes and shops that were decimated but were right next to houses, cafes and shops that appeared untouched apart from their contents being thrown around.
The next problem was theanic buying of petrol. We had just under half a tank but that was not enough to get us across the Transalpine and then down to Timaru where we intended to stop. We were not sure what to do when we spotted a small garage with a shortish queue. Thankfully we filled up as we heard the cashier tell someone on the phone the petrol was about to run out.
And then we had the perfect day to help us forget the previous 24 hrs. More stunning and majestic scenery as we drove into the Alps, hardly a car in sight. Crystal clear streams, the contrasting dark green of the firs on the slopes and all around us silence and beauty. It was a lovely day and just what we needed. We drove about 200km across the Southern Alps to Jacksons and then turned around, drove back and then down to . A lot of driving but it felt right. Arriving very tired in Timaru we discovered there was a tennis tournament on and all ,otels were booked. We finally found what was probably the last room in town....and then we saw why! The people were very friendly but the room was basically an old 1950s prefab and although the sheets were fine the covers were reminiscent of a 1970s caravan,and I don't think had been washed since then. But we were exhausted and grateful to lay our heads down. We still had mild aftershocks down in Timaru 170km south of Christchurch.
Bidding a hasty goodbye to Timaru we set off for Dunedin and the Otago Peninsular.
The miles flew past and soon we were driving the narrow road along the peninsular to Portobello. There we struck gold at the Portobello motel, a big sunny room, a balcony with a gorgeous view over the bays and a pub restaurant 100 metres away.
We did a boat trip and Dave got to see albatrosses swoop and keel over our boat. We also saw them nesting on the cliffs. We saw NZ fur seals and shearwaters. Lovely. Then after a drive around the lanes of this small peninsular with gorgeous views we arrived for a visit to a penguin sanctuary. On the tour before us there were 44 people, on our tour we were 4. Fabulous. They protect penguins and release them back to the sea when recovered or as adults. It was a great tour and we were able to get very close to these rare Yellow-eyed penguins thanks to ingenious hides and walkways built into the cliffs and beach. We were even able to tiptoe past one who had stationed himself in the middle of the path.
Next morning we went to Dunedin and admired the Victorian gothic facade, got my photos onto disc and headed off to the west coast and Te Anau ready for our trip to Milford Sound.
The next problem was theanic buying of petrol. We had just under half a tank but that was not enough to get us across the Transalpine and then down to Timaru where we intended to stop. We were not sure what to do when we spotted a small garage with a shortish queue. Thankfully we filled up as we heard the cashier tell someone on the phone the petrol was about to run out.
And then we had the perfect day to help us forget the previous 24 hrs. More stunning and majestic scenery as we drove into the Alps, hardly a car in sight. Crystal clear streams, the contrasting dark green of the firs on the slopes and all around us silence and beauty. It was a lovely day and just what we needed. We drove about 200km across the Southern Alps to Jacksons and then turned around, drove back and then down to . A lot of driving but it felt right. Arriving very tired in Timaru we discovered there was a tennis tournament on and all ,otels were booked. We finally found what was probably the last room in town....and then we saw why! The people were very friendly but the room was basically an old 1950s prefab and although the sheets were fine the covers were reminiscent of a 1970s caravan,and I don't think had been washed since then. But we were exhausted and grateful to lay our heads down. We still had mild aftershocks down in Timaru 170km south of Christchurch.
Bidding a hasty goodbye to Timaru we set off for Dunedin and the Otago Peninsular.
The miles flew past and soon we were driving the narrow road along the peninsular to Portobello. There we struck gold at the Portobello motel, a big sunny room, a balcony with a gorgeous view over the bays and a pub restaurant 100 metres away.
We did a boat trip and Dave got to see albatrosses swoop and keel over our boat. We also saw them nesting on the cliffs. We saw NZ fur seals and shearwaters. Lovely. Then after a drive around the lanes of this small peninsular with gorgeous views we arrived for a visit to a penguin sanctuary. On the tour before us there were 44 people, on our tour we were 4. Fabulous. They protect penguins and release them back to the sea when recovered or as adults. It was a great tour and we were able to get very close to these rare Yellow-eyed penguins thanks to ingenious hides and walkways built into the cliffs and beach. We were even able to tiptoe past one who had stationed himself in the middle of the path.
Next morning we went to Dunedin and admired the Victorian gothic facade, got my photos onto disc and headed off to the west coast and Te Anau ready for our trip to Milford Sound.
Akaroa, the day before the quake
As We woke up to a brilliant blue sky on Monday we decided to change our plans and go to Akaroa on the Banks Peninsular and leave Christchurch CBD for Tuesday.
Brian at the motel recommended driving the top road on approaching Akaroa rather than the coast road that most people take. As we saw 'most people' i.e the 3 other cars on the road' drop down the coast road we turned up a steep road and then had the most stunning drive high above the coast with incredible views at every turn.
How I wish I could post my photos but they are now on disc and as soon as I get my hands on a pc I will upload them.
We stopped so many times to look in awe at these fabulous vistas but finally drove down a perilously long, steep road into Akaroa. Akaroa owes it's existence to volcanic activity like so much of NZ. It was settled by the French in the 1800s and has a distinctive French feel. The roads have French names and the food looked good! It was very hot and gorgeously sunny. We had a long lazy lunch sitting by the open windows of an old trading post. We ordered a seafood platter and alongside the scallops, greenlipped mussels and prawns we discovered three delicious fillets of Brill. Yummmmmmmmm
We drove back along the coast road and through Littleton. After Akaroa we found it rather shabby and depressing. We didn't stop long. 24hrs later we felt bad that we had disliked this port that had now lost 60% of it's buildings. The narrow cliff road we had driven was now covered in boulders.
We had had a lovely day and looked forward to our visit to Christchurch Cathedral, Art Gallery and. arts Centre the next day.........
Brian at the motel recommended driving the top road on approaching Akaroa rather than the coast road that most people take. As we saw 'most people' i.e the 3 other cars on the road' drop down the coast road we turned up a steep road and then had the most stunning drive high above the coast with incredible views at every turn.
How I wish I could post my photos but they are now on disc and as soon as I get my hands on a pc I will upload them.
We stopped so many times to look in awe at these fabulous vistas but finally drove down a perilously long, steep road into Akaroa. Akaroa owes it's existence to volcanic activity like so much of NZ. It was settled by the French in the 1800s and has a distinctive French feel. The roads have French names and the food looked good! It was very hot and gorgeously sunny. We had a long lazy lunch sitting by the open windows of an old trading post. We ordered a seafood platter and alongside the scallops, greenlipped mussels and prawns we discovered three delicious fillets of Brill. Yummmmmmmmm
We drove back along the coast road and through Littleton. After Akaroa we found it rather shabby and depressing. We didn't stop long. 24hrs later we felt bad that we had disliked this port that had now lost 60% of it's buildings. The narrow cliff road we had driven was now covered in boulders.
We had had a lovely day and looked forward to our visit to Christchurch Cathedral, Art Gallery and. arts Centre the next day.........
Tuesday, 22 February 2011
Earthquake 2
It's 4am and the aftershocks are keeping me awake. We are having several an hour and some quite scary. We are supposed to be leaving in a few hours for Arthur's Pass high up in Southern Alps. I'm worried about state of mountain roads. We'll have to see. We are only now realising how lucky we were and how we could so easily have been injured. The scenes on tv are devastating and the number dead and injured horrifying. A really weird phenonomen was the liquefaction. Christchurch is on a sand and silt bed with a water table beneath. Straight after the quake pale grey mud pushed up through the streets and in the parks. It was rippled. Water everywhere. All for now x
Monday, 21 February 2011
Earthquake
We were in the city centre having just visited cathedral. We went to Arts Centre to see shops and have lunch. Wandered into a cafe in a corner of a quad for lunch. Just ordered when shaking started.
It started with a deep rumble and then the ground was shaking violently backwards and forwards, side to side and up and down. We were sitting in the far corner near the kitchen counter. It was almost impossible to move during those seconds.Looked at each other and saw everyone fleeing. The chef yelled "get out, get out" as kitchen stuff was flying everywhere. We ran to doorway and then an almighty crash as a huge turret crashed down not 10 feet away covering us in dust. Dived under counter. When quake settled we went out and just looked on stunned at the devastation. Great swathes of destruction, alarms and sirens going off, piles of rubble on the ground, sides of buildings slashed open. People asking each other are you ok? Walked down into the streets, absolutely shocking to see buildings we walked past an hour before reduced to rubble. It is now 4 hrs later. We got back to our motel past the pub we ate in last night now destroyed. There have been a number of severe aftershocks. Not sure what we are going to do for tonight. When we got to room tv and my suitcase had been flung across room. Drawers tossed around, microwave smashed. We are just devastated at the damage to this lovely city and it's beautiful cathedral. Will finish now. Love to all
It started with a deep rumble and then the ground was shaking violently backwards and forwards, side to side and up and down. We were sitting in the far corner near the kitchen counter. It was almost impossible to move during those seconds.Looked at each other and saw everyone fleeing. The chef yelled "get out, get out" as kitchen stuff was flying everywhere. We ran to doorway and then an almighty crash as a huge turret crashed down not 10 feet away covering us in dust. Dived under counter. When quake settled we went out and just looked on stunned at the devastation. Great swathes of destruction, alarms and sirens going off, piles of rubble on the ground, sides of buildings slashed open. People asking each other are you ok? Walked down into the streets, absolutely shocking to see buildings we walked past an hour before reduced to rubble. It is now 4 hrs later. We got back to our motel past the pub we ate in last night now destroyed. There have been a number of severe aftershocks. Not sure what we are going to do for tonight. When we got to room tv and my suitcase had been flung across room. Drawers tossed around, microwave smashed. We are just devastated at the damage to this lovely city and it's beautiful cathedral. Will finish now. Love to all
Mount Bruce to Nelson, Kaikoura and Christchurch
The Pukaha Mt Bruce Wildlife Reserve was brilliant. Conserving and protecting the indigenous species of NZ it was great to walk through the forest and bush learning so much about their work. Saw a baby kiwi being fed lunch (ahhhhhhhhhhh)
The displays were excellent giving the history of the Rangitane people and the way the ancient rainforest had discovered. We did the circular walk lasting about an hour and enjoyed the aviaries with endangered birds, the sounds of the forest and the excellent info.
On to Wellington which we really liked. Amazing Te Papa museum with so much to see and hear. Immigration histories, Maori legend and beliefs, artefacts, exhibits, paintings, sculptures, earthquakes, volcanos - it was a fabulous museum. A drizzly afternoon made the botanical gardens a bit dull but of course didn't stop Dave walking around nearly all of them.
Next morning a quick 10 min drive brought us to the ferry to South Island. Another warm sunny day and as we sailed into the Marlborough Sounds the views unfolding before us were stunning. Off the ship we took the Queen Charlottes Drive through Havelock to Cable Bay about 20 mins outside Nelson. QCD was another fantastic experience with jaw-dropping views at every turn. It was just WOW all the time. At Cable Bay we were staying B&B with furniture maker David Haig and David and Clare were wonderful hosts and their lovely house stood on an inlet with wonderful views. One day we took a water taxi up the coast of the Abel Tasman National Park to Bark Beach and were collected 5 hrs later. Other more adventurous souls were kayaking and
hiking through the park and its waters to the beaches. Fantastic day and yes it was hot and sunny.
We liked Nelson and it's arty crafty feel and had a terrific meal at the Boatshed out over the water.
Then a pleasant drive over to the other coast and to Kaikoura ready for the whale watching trip. The coastal drive down to Kaikoura was beautiful and we stopped at a place called The Store for coffee. You walk through the cafe and onto their huge deck overlooking a wild bit of the South Pacific. Fabulous.
We did an early whale watch trip. Kaikoura is lucky to have a 1.6km deep trench pretty close to shore so you don't have to sail for hours to get to the whale grounds. We were lucky to see two. They surface for about 10 mins then what everyone is waiting for.... The tail flick as they dive. The boat was on quite a swell and I missed photographing most of the first whale dive but got the second on video!
Then onto Christchurch. Another warm sunny day and we just love this place. We arrived yesterday on Sunday and set off for the centre. The Arts Centre is in what was Canterbury University. So all these artists, weavers, spinners, glassmakers etc have studios and shops. In this lovely Gothic building. We spent a wonderful afternoon there and then onto the Botanic Gardens with string quartets playing and young people punting on the river Avon. Heaven.
The displays were excellent giving the history of the Rangitane people and the way the ancient rainforest had discovered. We did the circular walk lasting about an hour and enjoyed the aviaries with endangered birds, the sounds of the forest and the excellent info.
On to Wellington which we really liked. Amazing Te Papa museum with so much to see and hear. Immigration histories, Maori legend and beliefs, artefacts, exhibits, paintings, sculptures, earthquakes, volcanos - it was a fabulous museum. A drizzly afternoon made the botanical gardens a bit dull but of course didn't stop Dave walking around nearly all of them.
Next morning a quick 10 min drive brought us to the ferry to South Island. Another warm sunny day and as we sailed into the Marlborough Sounds the views unfolding before us were stunning. Off the ship we took the Queen Charlottes Drive through Havelock to Cable Bay about 20 mins outside Nelson. QCD was another fantastic experience with jaw-dropping views at every turn. It was just WOW all the time. At Cable Bay we were staying B&B with furniture maker David Haig and David and Clare were wonderful hosts and their lovely house stood on an inlet with wonderful views. One day we took a water taxi up the coast of the Abel Tasman National Park to Bark Beach and were collected 5 hrs later. Other more adventurous souls were kayaking and
hiking through the park and its waters to the beaches. Fantastic day and yes it was hot and sunny.
We liked Nelson and it's arty crafty feel and had a terrific meal at the Boatshed out over the water.
Then a pleasant drive over to the other coast and to Kaikoura ready for the whale watching trip. The coastal drive down to Kaikoura was beautiful and we stopped at a place called The Store for coffee. You walk through the cafe and onto their huge deck overlooking a wild bit of the South Pacific. Fabulous.
We did an early whale watch trip. Kaikoura is lucky to have a 1.6km deep trench pretty close to shore so you don't have to sail for hours to get to the whale grounds. We were lucky to see two. They surface for about 10 mins then what everyone is waiting for.... The tail flick as they dive. The boat was on quite a swell and I missed photographing most of the first whale dive but got the second on video!
Then onto Christchurch. Another warm sunny day and we just love this place. We arrived yesterday on Sunday and set off for the centre. The Arts Centre is in what was Canterbury University. So all these artists, weavers, spinners, glassmakers etc have studios and shops. In this lovely Gothic building. We spent a wonderful afternoon there and then onto the Botanic Gardens with string quartets playing and young people punting on the river Avon. Heaven.
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